Training For Climbing – Finger Strength


In a brand new training series from EpicTV, climbing coach and author Eric Horst talks us through the steps needed to become an all round better climber. First off: finger strength.

Stay tuned to for more training tips. And check out our range of training aids here….

Director: George Bruce Wilson
Producer: Three Peak Films


35 thoughts on “Training For Climbing – Finger Strength”

  1. hey, ive been bouldering for a little bit, still a novice tho so i'll stick to climbing to improve for now.. I was still wondering why you shouldn't exercise with the full crimp hold when training fingers? thank you!

  2. 6:04: "Three to five days of aggregate training and climbing per week is more than enough; doing any more tempts injury."
    What is the meaning of the word 'aggregate' in this context?

  3. I have just started bouldering, but want to do some extra training to improve faster. Should I do the hang training for beginners before bouldering, or after?

  4. Even though I've been climbing 2-3 times a week for over a year (and another less intensive year previous to that), I still find most of the finger training programs extremely difficult to follow.

    The usual beginner's routine is filled with grips that are pretty hard for pretty much every climbing beginner I've met – maybe we're missing a previous step on this kind of training?

  5. Nice but what I personally lack the most is strength on slopers and pinchers and sadly a lot of the gyms I've been to don't offer a lot of training holds for that. I have no problems with two-finger hangs and campusing up and down on small edges but throw a tough sloper my way and I'm out 😐

  6. Why does this training cause injury to then nervous system? I can't see how it would……. and if you did injure nerves, a few days is definitely not enough to recover from nerve injury lol.

  7. My friends do / have a indoor climbing gym. I went there twice but I'm a guy with small fingers and I didn't like how the fingers hurt. There are some pains I can stand like punches, gym-soreness or that feeling of being out of breathe. But finger pain is not for me

  8. ps i boulder every Monday – Weds – Thursday 1hr per day – will i stress my self doing that way or will it be good ;p

  9. Good video. Appropriate time under tension for the target fibers. Appropriate rest. Good philosophy. Avoiding overtraining. I like. 2 thumbs up.

  10. Hello Mr. Eric thank you for sharing your knowledge. I have one question; Should I do this finger strength training before or after my regular climbing day at the gym? I have been climbing for about 8 months and I climb 5.10B and V3's..

  11. How do I gain finger strength without using those equipments. Is there an exercise I can do right at home

  12. Where is the transition from beginning climber to more advanced? I feel like I'm currently climbing consistent v5 at my local gym, but I'm not fully capable of finishing v6. I went from barely v1 to solid v5 in about 3 or 4 months of consistent climbing. I'd like to start training more seriously, but I don't want to jump the gun and injure myself. Am I at the right level to start finger training or should I wait longer?

  13. curious is there some type of training for toe strength because one could develop strong fingers with crappy toe endurance which i imagine is bad your only as good as your weakest link

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